I have a replacement rear axle sitting in my garage also so that can go on after the lift. I'm going to actually put a 1-1.5' body lift on it next just so I can get more access to the frame.then see where I stand before putting more into it. I just pulled the rear bumper, spare tire hardware, and running boards so it opened up the frame a lot to be able to work on. I'll post some pics for all you guys to tell me to run from later tonight. Just did the Tundra 231mm upgrade, which is what got me going on this project again.I know about those RCA mounts also, mine are rusty but don't seem worse than the rest of the rear 1/2 of the truck, which looks terrible but I don't think I have any soft spots. i need to replace the entire rear axle housing the pumpkin rusted through a few years ago and I managed to limp along for years using it as my in town only car with some well placed JB Weld (still going! but i was careless and cooked the gears at one point knowing I was going to replace the whole thing anyway, so they whine quite a bit). 2000 limited, 4.10 no locker, 154k miles, I'm original owner. Good luck! If you have any 3rd gen questions let me know.ģrd gen, same year as you. Currently have coated in marine grade Fluid Film and hoping nobody pokes em. Running boards on because my rockers are paper. Right about here I realized this was pointless Despite all of that, I love the damn thing to death. Would be risky to take a flight and buy one. The problem with the 3GT4Rs is the cult like following and how quickly they sell. The lesson to learn here is never to buy a rust belt car. I slapped some Corroseal on the rear diff and just keep the entire underside drenched in Fluid Film. Especially when you're on your back with tight goggles so rust doesn't fall in your eyes, and a respirator that gets in the way. In the end with how bad mine was I just didn't feel like doing all of that work. I bought a HF angle grinder, Corroseal to convert, and was considering POR-15. I had the same ambition you did to salvage it. My frame rail has been patched before, they sell made in USA kits to patch. Next are the rear shock mounts, a lot of those punch through. If the DeWalt is the same as the IA, I'll go that route, unless the aluminum head makes a meaningful difference.ģrd gens you need to check the rear control arm mounts, the passenger side more so. My current need is 120v (semi)portable so I'm looking for the best 30g 2hp unit I can get that will do at leas 5cfm that I can find. Thanks for any help I've been looking around for a few hrs for OEM manuf for these units but not having much luck, but my best guess is IA? I realize I may be totally off on these assumptions I know nothing about compressor components/manuf so apologies in advance if so. This IA model (ILA1883054) has the same exact look/specs (along with a few other relabeled units)īut i can get the dewalt right now from and save $50.Ģ) Industrial Air has an aluminum head unit also (model IL1983013) that I can't find any info on, online info is very sparse, does anyone know if this is newer/worth the extra $50-100+extra ship time? It's same airflow specs but saves 30lbs on a portable unit over the cast iron and also operates 130PSI vs 155PSI. I found a needle scaler that isn't so industrial and will do the trick for me - 5 CFM like the rest of my tools, so I'm going to compromise with the best 30g 120v compressor I can get.ġ) Is Industrial Air the OEM for this 30g 1.9hp DeWalt (DXCMLA1983054)? My question: How painful would it be trying to run that needle scaler with a 6cfm set-up, when it calls for 15cfm full duty? Would it even run? I don't mind waiting a bit for it to cycle, Im doing small sections at a time. So, there are a few tool brand/big box 120v 25-30g units (like this dewalt: ) that I could pick up and actually put into use in short order, that deliver 5-7cfm on their spec sheet. In an ideal world, I'd buy a 5hp 80g shop compressor and call it good for that and 90% of what I would need it for as a DIY weekend guy for the next 10-15 years, but I don't have a 220v run to my work area right now and don't see that happening soon. However, the IR 125 needle scaler is rated for 15cfm full duty. I'm running a 2.6g 3.3cfm makita made for nail guns portable now which doesn't really cut it for them, but will run a cut-off wheel painfully.

Outside of that I don't do too much w air tools - I have a dewalt 20v impact, and some basic air tools that are all 4-5 CFM tools.

I want to run a needle scaler to try and salvage a 4runner frame, body still on. Hi all - I know there are thousands of compressor threads, and I've spent hours and hours researching, which actually is making it harder for me to figure this out:

Needler air tool